So the CBS for my BMW X1 indicated that the rear brakes pads were up for replacement. The pads were last replaced at 58k kms and the odo currently stands at 82k kms. Which means I got about 24k on the pads. From what I read this is average with a general life of the pads being about 25k. The last time I changed the pads I got it done at the BMW service center as I did not have the pads and not enough research completed to attempt a DIY.
I sourced a set of AKEBONO pads for around $100. Ordered an extra couple of sensors just in case. The pads however come with a brake sensor and springs that fit onto the pad.
Every DIY comes with it's own set of peculiarities. All manufacturers have specific approaches regarding design of bolts. fastenings etc. For the X1 here is what stood out for me:
- The electronic parking brake. The X1 comes with a electronic parking brake which means that there is a motor that is actuated to push the pads against the rotors. This means that pushing the piston back to get clearance for the new pads doesn't quite work. There are multiple ways to do this:
- the standard practice is to achieve this through BMW's service software ISTA. In ISTA there is a routine that puts the brakes into service mode which essentially pull back the motor from the piston so that you can push it back. This is what i used. It also means that you need to reset the brakes to normal operating condition using ISTA once the service is done. ISTA provides a clear step by step procedure to get this done and is pretty easy to follow.
- another option is to remove the motor from the calipers entirely so that the piston can be pushed back
- the third option is to apply reverse polarity to the motor to and spin in in the opposite direction to retract it.
- When you remove the dust covers over the caliper bolts you might be excused for expecting a 12mm bolt like most of the other vehicle. BMW however uses a hex bolt that needs an 7mm Allen key (H7) to unscrew the caliper guides. Picked this nice toolset from Flipkart that included a star allen key that helped with the X1's oil filter drain cap, the filler nut for the Aisin transmission as well.

I used the ISTA software to set the parking brake to service mode, jacked up the car and removed the tyres. The first step is to unplug the socket to the parking brake motor. This is the plug that you see dangling at the bottom of the image below. It has a small tab that you have to depress while pulling out the plug to unlock the lockinging mechanism. While pushing it back just push till you hear a click of the locks engaging.
Unplug the brake wear sensor from the socket which is located behind the fender lining towards the rear of the wheel well. I was able to access this by folding the lining back but you may have to pull out one of the fasteners to access the socket. Just following the wear sensor cable to locate the socket. It sits in a plastic holder along with the ABS sensor socket. You can see the wear sensor cable in the right of the image below.
Next I removed the spring that holds the calliper agains the caliper assembly. If you don't have this the you will get a rattle as you push against the callipers even with the calliper bolts fixed. No guesses for how I figured this one out. Let's just say I had changed the pads and bolted back the wheel on one side before the figured this one out.😐 To remove the spring just push down on the top with your thumb and use a flat head screwdriver to pry out the portion that goes into the two holes on the face of the calliper itself.
It other vehicles I've owned you had to remove only one of the calliper bolts and loosen the other and the calliper could be swung up/down to access the pads themselver. However in the X1 you need to remove both the bolts and lift the calliper off to access the bolts. These kind of aspects create a new appreciation on how simple things lend themselves to easy service procedures and less mistakes which make Japanese cars much cheaper and faster to service. In the image below you can see the calliper with the spring removed.

I used a box to place the calliper on, once I removed it from the assembly to avoid straining the brake lines and ABS cables. You can see the piston in the middle that I pushed back using a socket extension so that the increased thickness of the new brake pads could be accomodated.
Comparing the thickness of the old and new pads. Maybe another 1000 kms left on the old pads. However the wear sensors were pretty worn out and indicated I was 400km over the replacement warning. Give the amount to programming these cars have I am not sure how much this would cause the control modules to adjust associated setting and performance so I generally follow the CBS (Condition Based Service) warnings.

Installed the pads next which just hook on top of the calliper assembly requiring the calliper to hold them in place. This makes it a bit fiddly while installing the calliper. Another aspect that I dislike over the Japenese cars that have a pad profile that just locks into place which makes installing the calliper much easier. You can also see an additional spring peeping out in the middle of the picture. Got new ones along with the Akebono pads. I think these help the calliper push down on the pads and maintain them in place. Maybe ensure that the wear sensors are held tight in place to but not 100% on this one. Anyway they slot into the grove for the wear sensor. You need to install new wear sensors as the old ones will be pretty worn down and useless.
New pads in place with the callipers fixed and the spring installed. Did it in perfect order on the second wheel after all the learning on the first one.
Some additional observations. The hex bolt is access from the rear face of the wheel and it helps to have a longer Allen key or a ratchet extension.
The plug that goes into the socket of the parking brake motor. The socket is just above the plig in the diagram and located towards the bottom of the assemble. You can also see the wear sensor cable coming out through an opening in the calliper. I installed the wear sensor at the end after installing the pads and bolting the calliper in place.
As mentioned at the start DO NOT FORGET to set your parking brake back to normal operating mode using ISTA. Test that all is well by activating and deactivating the parking brake a couple of times.
That's it. As usually the achy joints and muscles notwithstanding, the sweet feeling after a DIY is priceless.